![]() ![]() ![]() If there is not enough analogue meter indication for the current you have in mind then you need a longer cable or the idea is a bad one. The analogue meter will measure volt drop of the cable. Insert this temporarily into the battery circuit and fit the microamp meter across from one end to the other of the feed cable. Calibration can be done with a digital multimeter having a 10 or 20 amp range. The down side is that you will not get an absolute current value in amps unless you can calibrate the meter in some way. They do not then drop a lot of voltage in the shunt and require no power to supply them. The meters built say for 100 microamp full scale deflection can use a section of supply cable as the shunt. Obviously once it's out and I've read the instructions it may all become clear but for now I'm just trying to plan how to plan my rewire/upgrade.įor a completely different approach to OP problem there is an old fashioned solution re current in the form of analogue moving coil meter. Is there a disadvantage having a 100amp shunt rather than a 50amp shunt, thinking it may be possible to draw more than the 50amp limit but hopefully only using about 10% of it's rating? Or does it not really matter? I imagine with everything on and being used I would use less than 100amps, probably closer to 50 as I doubt I'll be using the fridge, heater, bilge pump, all the instruments, autopilot, lights but I would hope the usual power draw will be less than 10AH at any one time. Lastly, shunts, they say in the limited information to use a 75mV shunt. ![]() If after the shunt will the BM will show 9amp draw? Will this matter/confuse the current draw whether it was before or after the shunt? If I'm drawing 10amps through the shunt I assume say the solar is pumping in 1amp before the shunt the actual battery is dropping 9AH. Solar onto Post A so itself feeding the batteries with the master off so before the shunt. I'm guess it takes it power from the seatalk network so wouldn't draw any power once this was turned off anyway. I was thinking of putting the shunt between the post B and the switch panel so the whole caboodle gets shut off. 3 wires, battery side of shunt, load side of shunt and negative. I assume it outputs NMEA2K PGN127508 which is voltage, current and temperature but it does mention state of charge in the link.įirstly wiring, it measures on the positive side. I can't find anything reasonable (compact) and I don't want a second display like Victron BM range but I have found this Yacht Devices News: New product: NMEA 2000 Battery MonitorĪlthough not out yet and no instructions available I think it'll suit my needs but a couple of questions if I may. I don't want a battery monitor as such but with my recent seatalk upgrade I think it would be a good way of seeing what the current voltage and current draw on my I70 and to make a note on long passages in the logbook. One for the electric techs possibly, and to get my head around it. ![]()
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